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• Gameboy Dmg 01
• Gameboy Dmg Mods
• Gameboy Dmg 01 Power Adapter

Game Boy is very similar to the original Nintendo Game Boy, but the traditional white Play it Loud! Game Boy has dark gray buttons, and the screen lens is dark gray. See Also edit edit source List of Game Boy System Colors and Variations - A page that consists of mentioning different colored shells for different systems in the Game Boy line. How Do I Open Dmg Files On Windows 10 Gameboy Dmg 03 Dc Connector How To Open Encrypted Dmg Files On Windows 7 Can't Get Full Dmg Installer For Mac Os Sierra How To Install Os X Mountain Lion 10.8.5.dmg All Magic Dmg Or All Melee Dmg Divinity 2 Ds3 No Armor More Dmg Create Dmg From Mac Snow Leopard Cd Contact. The first generation Game Link Cable (model DMG-04) was released alongside the original Game Boy and has 'large' connectors on both ends. It can only be used to link two original Game Boy consoles to play Game Link-compatible games, usually denoted by a 'Game Link' logo (often read as 'Game Boy Video Link') on the packaging and cartridge. A select few Game Boy games, such as F-1 Race.

1. Central Processing Unit (CPU) 8 Bit, Clock frequency: 4.19 MHz, RAM: 8 Kbytes 8 Bit, Clock frequency: 4.19 MHz, RAM: 8 Kbytes 8 Bit, Clock frequency: 8 MHz, RAM: 32 Kbytes Dimensions 148 x 90 x 32 mm 127.6 x 77.6 x 25.3 mm 133.5 x 78 x 27.4 mm.
2. Nintendo Game Boy - Original (Gray) Nintendo. 4.3 out of 5 stars 523. 16 offers from $94.99. Belker 12W Universal 3V 4.5V 5V 6V 7.5V 9V 12V AC DC Adapter Power Supply for Household Electronics Router Speaker Smart Phone Tablet CCTV IP Camera - 1A 1000mA Amp Max. AC adapter for the classic DMG gameboy. The plug end is shaped a.

Hay folks,
I got something to share:
This is a scan of the main logic board for the DMG 01. I had been wanting an image like this for a while, and decided to make it myself. I started removing components before I had the necessary equipment, so some things aren't as pretty as they could be, but I nit-pick.
My motivation for what became a massive project started when I saw some minor inconsistencies between the only information I could find (which is right here) and what I was seeing while reverse-engineering the poor gameboy you see to the left, but it was more than enough for me to get started. I'll explain more of my motivations later. But now you get to see the fruits of my labor!

(1890 x 1854, 6.13 MB)
Aaaand this is the back. Without the copper sticker of questionable purpose. (I'll have other quandaries some of you may be able to answer later.

(1890 x 1854, 5.82 MB)
Before I go any further, please know this is the first revision. Everything looks right to my eyes, but they may not be as trained as some of yours. Let me know what may need to be corrected.
The biggest thing I wanted when drafting these documents was transparency. I wanted all this to be understandable to someone with only basic understanding of what circuits are and how they work. I'll give a crash course later in this topic on how to read this schematic if you're having troubles.

(The rest of these images are a lot smaller than the photos, but at beautiful 3125 resolution - just so you can thoroughly appreciate the detail)

<smug> This is it, folks. All of it. Everything. All 80 hours of work, plus or minus (I'd rather not think about it). The usefulness of this image is less than the others because it's so detailed. But I must show the detail nevertheless.</smug>
This does give me the opportunity to tell you a little about the prints you're looking at (or whatever they're called in digital format).
Source: The gameboy I dissembled had an early production of the sixth revision of the CPU PCB. I know this because I am only the second owner of this gameboy. The gentleman I bought this from sold me his and his brother's, saying he had gotten his, from the store, soon after his brother had gotten his. His brother's has a revision five. I can spot a few differences between them, but they're small things that shouldn't matter.
Accuracy: The scans I made had some distortion because it didn't lay perfectly flat against the glass. I corrected this in Photoshop by re-distorting the image. I didn't get it perfect - as in: there's a total of 0.4mm of drift in the image, I hope you can deal with that. I did attempt to get things as accurate as I could. The initial draft followed the image to a minimum of 1/20th of a mm. I then went back through and took some liberties with spacing. There are only a couple places that bother me, but I doubt any of you are looking that closely.
Applicability: If you were to make this board as I've shown and soldered all the bits to it, would it work? Yes. Would it fit in your DMG case? Yes, but it'd be a little snug. Why did I do this? Haha, silence.. I mean, science!

This is the more reasonable 'fully loaded' version. This shows just the traces of the front (in red), back (in blue), and silk screening (in white). The font isn't the same, because there's a level of absurdity even I can anticipate. I didn't split as many hairs with the silk as with the traces (the red/blue bits) - the purpose of this image is to cross reference the location and orientation of the components because I left the silk out of the rest of the plans for clarity. If you're not sure what the symbols, abbreviations, or values are - look for a crash-course later in this topic.

This is for general reference. Just the traces as seen from the front. I should note that the front is red, and the back is shown all 'x-ray' like in blue.

Gameboy Dmg 01

Because I know not everyone has spent the hours staring at this that I have, I anticipate some of you will still find the previous plan confusing, or only happen to care about one side of the board for some reason. This is the front, the whole front, and nothing but the front..

.. and the back. This image shows the back as it is viewed from the back - not inverted as it is in the rest of the plans.

OK, now for some more technically relevant information. There are three major things I wanted to communicate with these plans. This is part of one of them: How power enters the circuit. The highlighted traces is the path from the positive terminal on the battery bay to the DC power jack. Why? Because there is an important break in the circuit at this point. When external power is provided via this jack, the gameboy is kind enough to stop sapping your batteries of their life juice. It does this by having a switch in the jack itself. That means that if you're modding your GB and want to draw power from somewhere, you can't draw it from this path if you're using the external DC jack. This is the type of thing I know I'd end up raging about if I needed to troubleshoot. That's why this is here.
(It might still work if you have batteries installed, but you run the risk of overheating/leaking/exploding/etc. the batteries depending on the configuration if you also have the external power plugged in. Something about messing with the chemical reaction occurring in the batteries. Just something to keep in mind.)

The second leg of the power's journey is shown here. The circuit at this point assumes it has power. It travels from the DC jack up to the switch that we all know makes the 'buh-ding' happen. That switch is an inverted 'single pole double throw' switch. Which means that when you flip the switch, two things are happening. When in the 'on' state, the switch completes the circuit between the bottom 2 pins, and only the bottom 2 pins. When it is 'off', it completes the circuit for the top 2 pins, and only the top 2 pins.
Then something interesting occurs. The power for most of the circuit leaves this board and runs off to another one (which I'm sure is the power regulator, but I haven't taken that apart yet). What's interesting is that this unregulated power runs off to the 2nd pin of the flex cable that goes to your screen's circuit board, and another part branches off to the 4th pin of the amp. So, yeah. That's a thing.

What I assume is the regulated power re-enters the board just a few holes below the point it left, and makes a highway-loop around most everything. This is where I recommend pulling power from, which is fairly convenient because it's mostly on the back, so it's easy to follow. Everything labeled VCC on the schematic comes directly from this.

As with every yin, there is a yang. For every high there is a low. Every positive, a negative. And for every VCC, there is a GND. As you can see, the grounding plain is quite sizable, so there you go. The VCCs and GNDs are the second thing I wanted to communicate with you folks. Have at it.

The third and final thing I wanted to show you is how the CPU gets the amp to make all the 'bleeps' and 'bloops' everyone here has come to love. Particularly so for the DMG. This is the left and right audio out from the CPU to capacitors 3 and 4, through resistors 5 and 6 and finally into the amp.

These last two images are really straight forward. This one is the path the left audio takes from the amp, off the board, and to the headphone panel.

And this is showing the right audio doing the same.
While you're looking, see if you can follow the trace from pin 3 on the amp to pin 20 on the flex cable socket going to the screen's board. That's the summed mono audio heading to the speaker on the bottom right of the gameboy.

So, yeah. That's about it for that. Enjoy!

Also, hi. I'm new here

Last edited by bit 9 (Aug 24, 2014 2:25 am)

Testing Gameboy input voltage ranges

Introduction

Recently there was a discussion about on 8bc about a new way of backlighting DMG’s. Bonewire’s backlighting method replaces the batteries with two 9V batteries. This raised the discussion of whether you could power the Gameboy directly with a 9V battery, or whether it would explode/otherwise fail.

I wrote a post about the inner workings of the regulator and promised to come back with some more measurements of the performance of the regulator at different voltage levels.

To clear possible confusion: One important aspect of the regulator is that it’s a switching type regulator which is using a feedback mechanism to keep the voltage steady. Because of its design it’s able to do so whether the input voltage is lower or higher than the target voltage of about +5V. Thus, the input voltage may vary, while the output voltage stays (relatively) constant. This is useful for battery operation since the batteries can used as long as they are able to give enough current, whether or not their voltage is low. Switching power regulators, in general, also have a power conversion ratio: Little energy is lost in the conversion. (As opposed to a linear regulator, like the 7805 & co, which are guranteed to wate at least a certain amount of energy as heat)

Test Conditions

The goal of the test is to benchmark the input voltage range at which a Gameboy power supply would work at. The test subject was a DMG-CPU-7 revision motherboard with a DC CONV DMG converter. (There are at least two versions of the regulator board; the other one is marked DC CONV 2 DMG and has a couple more components on it.)
I used a xzakox type flash cartridge loaded with LSDj, playing a melody, with power save set to off.

Here a few notes on the measured values:

• V_in was adjusted in steps of 0.5 V and 1.0 V. The value is accurate to ±10 mV for all it matters
• V_out was measured with a multimeter and is accurate.
• I_in is the input current as displayed by the power supply unit, and is fairly inaccurate. (It only shows the general tendency)
• DC/DC control RMS/f This value is also a bit hit and miss. I tried to read out the frequency which the DC/DC converter was working at, from the oscilloscope, to the best of my ability. This value fluctuated a lot, and is also just there to give a general picture of the freqeuncy. At the lower values the oscilloscope was unable to detect the frequency at all.
  That is what the cryptic RMS voltage is there for. It should give a rough idea of the duty cycle of the control wave.
• Notes These are my observations for some of the voltages.

Gameboy Dmg Mods

Test Data

Observations and conclusions

Low voltage operation

The first interesting observation is the behavior in the low end of the voltage spectrum. The regulator could manage to keep the CPU alive at an input voltage as low as 1.5V. However, at that voltage there were significant power losses in the conversion, sound wouldn’t work and the Gameboy would crash easily.
At the transition 2.5V->3V you can see a significant change in input current, and I also noticed a change in behavior on the oscilloscope. I’d define 3V as the absolute minimum voltage that the regulator board can handle stable.
Sidenote: This possibly opens the door for using a Li-Ion battery for powering a DMG.

Normal voltage operation

At 4.0 V the Gameboy is definitely operating normally. As the input voltage is increased, the switching frequency is increased of the regulator is increased. No abnormal behavior. At no point during the testing did I notice and excessive heat production in the regulator circuit.

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Above-normal voltage operation

4 AA batteries can not reasonably produce voltages higher than 7 V, so anything above that could be seen as outside the standard range of operation.
So what are the effects of voltages above 7 V? The regulator itself seems to handle it fairly well. And the +5V output only fluctuates 100 mV, so the CPU won’t be affected. However, while the +5V is regulated, the -18V line used by the LCD is not directly regulated, but instead current limited by a 510 Ohm resistor.

It is possible that the increased input voltage will also increase the LCD voltage in such a way that it damages the LCD. The Gameboy I used for testing already had a slightly damaged display, but when I was done wih the testing its display was more or less completely broken (would turn off or glitch out within seconds after turning on the power, regardless of input voltage)

I tried feeding my known good Gameboy with 9V for a few minutes, with a moderate contrast setting, without any problems. However, it’s possible that the extreme positions of the contrast dial will slowly destroy the LCD, when the input voltage is >7 V. If so, it could probably be fixed by changing the control voltage range for the contrast dial.

Gameboy Dmg 01 Power Adapter

I’ll have to investigate that further, but my preliminary conclusion is that you can feed the Gameboy with a 9V battery without problems.